The PNW Series: The Oregon Coast

Words cannot describe the beauty of the North and Central Oregon coasts.  Only photos can do it justice and even then they cannot capture the true essence of the area.  We took a road trip from Tacoma down to Newport, Oregon in one day then spent two nights and one day in Newport.  I will highlight the stops along the way and my favorites aspects of Newport.  This makes for a great little weekend getaway or a nice portion of a long Oregon road trip, like we did.

A quick stop in Astoria 

 Astoria is a perfect place to stop for lunch.  It has a quaint downtown with a beautiful waterfront and is famous as the filming location of “The Goonies.”  There are several breweries in Astoria but we made our stop at the Wet Dog Cafe, known for having amazing clam chowder.  We ordered flights of beer along with our chowder and enjoyed views of the water while tasting Wet Dog brews.  I personally did not think any of the beer brewed by Wet Dog was necessarily epic, but it was solid.  The Poop Deck Porter was the best they had to offer, but again, not amazing.  We didn’t have time, but I hear the Fort George Brewery is the best in town.  The Wet Dog food was spectacular though, and the view is hard to beat!  Since its just a stop on the road trip and nobody is trying to be a drunken co-pilot, let alone driver, Wet Dog is worth the food and view.  After lunch hop back in the car and head along the 101 for about 45 minutes to Cannon Beach.

Cannon Beach – Haystack Rock is the must see! 

Cannon Beach has its own variety of adorable shops and downtown dining.  It is worth a stay in its own right! However, we had a final destination so this was just a quick visit.  We didn’t make any stops to imbibe except an attempt to try Sleepy Monk’s famous coffee but we learned an important lesson – they don’t brew coffee after 5pm!  However, they have a parking lot close to Haystack Rock and the beach so we continued to the water from there.  Haystack Rock is this giant formation, clearly in the shape of its namesake, just sitting by itself right on the beach.  We made our way out during low tide to see the natural beauty.  Thousands of birds nest on the rock and bask in the sunlight.  Its a lovely walk from the entrance to the beach over soft sand and then hard-packed wet sand to the base of the rock.  There were dogs everywhere and families enjoying the sunshine even though the day itself wasn’t too warm, maybe about 70F at that point.  Probably the neatest aspect of Haystack rock are the tide pools that become visible during low tide.  The rocks are just teeming with aquatic life from anemone to mussels to starfish.  Some areas are protected but you are generally pretty free to walk around and explore.  This photo is color-filtered to highlight the beautiful greens of the kelp and giant anemone.  There is also plenty of pink coral and barnacles.  It is fascinating and you may find yourself staring and searching for hours. We allowed ourselves about 30 minutes and then headed back to the car for the remaining 2.5 hours of our drive.

Final Destination: Newport Oregon 

You will pass through famous Tillamook so feel free to stop at the cheese factory if you have time.  I have a dairy intolerance and we didn’t have the time so went straight to our condo just north of downtown Newport on Agate Beach.  Newport has so many good seafood restaurants but we chose Georgie’s Beachside Grill, one of the only places with an actual view of the Pacific Ocean, not just the bay.  Fueled up we retired to be prepared for a full Saturday in Newport.

Agate Beach Walk – The day began with a walk down beautiful Agate Beach until we reached the point where the beach ends at the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area.  Surfers were out in full wet and dry suits catching the breaking waves.  No matter where you stay on the beach, I recommend a morning walk!

Tour of Yaquina Head Lighthouse – Yaquina Head Lighthouse sits in the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area.  It is one of the best preserved lighthouses on the West Coast and the tallest on the Oregon Coast.  Even if you aren’t a huge fan of lighthouses it is worth the tour! Tours are free but they only take place from 11-3pm on the hour and accept 16 people per tour.  You stop in the visitor center at 10am to get a tour pass and sign up for your specific time.  We signed up for the 11am tour so we had approx. 45 minutes to explore and wandered down some of the paths in the Natural Area and took photos of the hundreds of thousands of birds perched on the rocks below the lighthouse.  One of the park rangers, dressed in 19th century garb, gave an outstanding in-character tour that lasted about 45 minutes.  It included a walk up the spiral staircase inside leading to the giant lens, still the original created in Paris in 1868.  Depending on your timing stay and explore the Natural Area.  You purchase an all day pass upon entry to the park though, so we decided to return at low tide to try to see the famous seals and sea lions that sunbathe on the rocks around the lighthouse.

Rogue Brewing – “We’ve gone Rogue.”  Many people have heard of the famous Rogue Dead Guy Ale, but Rogue has so much more to offer! To include mouth-watering food and brewery tours in their gigantic facility.  We opted against the tour since we’re very familiar with how beer is made, and went straight for the food and flights.  The food is out of this world.  Appetizers are where its at, to include the poutine and “blue balls,” (you’ll just have to find out for yourself).  The chowder may have been better than Wet Dog.  As far as beers go, we tried 11 different brews and I found myself, hands down, most in love with the Chocolate Stout.  It was the best beer on tap.  There were also a few disgusting ones like the Marionberry Braggot.  Thank goodness it was only seasonal.  My other top picks were the Good Chit Pilsner, IMP Smoked Lager, and Hazelnut Brown Nectar (brown ale).  But please, try them all for yourself!

Newport Harbor Waterfront – Our goal was to stop and see the supposedly ever-present harbor seals but we met disappointment as we happened to come during their mating season and not a single seal was to be found.  We hung our heads and made our way down the adorable main street to a wine tasting venue and tried some local Reds.  Rogue also has its original location here so if you need to stop for additional souvenirs, like we did, have no fear.  Some of the famous seafood restaurants are also along the harbor.  Hopefully you get to see the seals when you go!

Yaquina Bay Outstanding Natural Area – After the harbor seal disappointment
we made our way back to the natural area for low tide with high hopes.  I cannot stress it enough, this is the best time to go!  For us, low tide was 5:06pm.  Of course it changes depending on the time of year.  We arrived and immediately noticed little white spots covering the rocks, to include one called “Seal Rock.”  I used my zoom lens and confirmed – sea lions!!  I basically sprinted down the steps to the beach and barely listened to the well-informed Ranger’s guidance on how to treat the wildlife.  In addition to the dozens of sun bathing seal lions and nesting birds, the beach has plenty of tide pools covered with plant and animal life!  Much like Cannon Beach but even more
extensive!  We saw a giant sea star, anemones, sea urchins, mussel clusters, fish, you name it.  Its a paradise for children where the rangers provide laminated sheets to help them identify the wildlife via photos. Please just respect the signs and don’t step on or touch what they tell you not to!  Unless you poke a giant anemone, its harmless and a pretty crazy sensation!  We didn’t stay all the way through sunset but I imagine it is pretty amazing!  The walk back up the wooden steps provides a nice workout and beautiful views on the walk back to the car.

Bonfires on the Beach! – Best law in Oregon?  Bonfires are legal on the public
beaches!  I have to thank my aunt for knowing this little tidbit as our bonfire became one of my favorites parts of the entire trip!  We purchased firewood from a local gas station and lighter fluid, etc. from the local Wal-Mart.  With the sunset we started a fire, right on the sand in front of our condo, protected from the intense wind by a little sand dune.  We enjoyed Willamette Valley wine, cheese and crackers, and music while we laughed and sang by the fire.  Everyone loves bonfires and ones with wine are even better!  If you get low on wood, there is plenty of driftwood on the beach.  If you don’t let the fire burn all the way out just be sure to put it out with sand.  Instant awesome memory!

I hope this review gives you some insight into a fun trip down the Oregon Coast.  I would love to hear anyone who has been to the Southern Oregon Coast too!